These are a fully loaded plug and play package with plenty of extra inputs and outputs, including headphone output for listening to a knock sensor, a 4 bar MAP sensor for massive boost levels, output for a boost control valve, peak and hold injector drivers, and more!

This is our most powerful production plug and play system for Mustangs yet! Click here for to order yours today! All Fox Body 5. More information on each implementation and any modifications required are below. The MegaSquirt can take over all of the functions except some of the emissions control devices. You can use the Megasquirt to control the TFI module, which is quite straightforward.

Or if you want to give your system the ability to cut the fuel, you can control an MSD box or the coil directly, bypassing the TFI module on the output side.

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Based on a remote mount TFI Module and a separate distributor. Same story as the for the most part, you just get the return the signals to different places. Almost any MS variant can be used on these cars with full fuel and ignition control. The MS2 adds more precise fuel and timing control with a faster processor, while MS3 opens up even more options, including full sequential EFI with the stock distributor.

The V3. Here is an external wiring diagram for the V3.

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Note that the fuses and relays are already in the stock wiring, so you will not need to change these. The injector configuration shown is intended to promote smooth flow through the fuel rails and is one of several possible ways to wire the injectors. Maybe a bit less. Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder. Tin the stripped wire with solder. Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 1K ohm resistor tip and let it cool.

This is an older setup that is somewhat easier to build, but does not offer fast idle support, nor does it use quite as reliable a transistor to drive the MSD box as the BIP These diagrams are very useful if you are planning on running your MegaSquirt using a MSD 6a box to provide the ignition signal.

Those are the only two missing pieces of the puzzle. Image courtesy of Bowling and Grippo. To wire this up with the relay boardyou will need to jumper the FIDLE relay to take it out of the loop, below is a picture of how to do this. This will allow full control of your PWM idle valve.

You should also put a 1N diode across the PWM Idle valve itself — the banded end goes to the 12 Volt supply, the non-banded end goes to the lead that goes to MegaSquirt this diode is for flyback purposes on the idle valve. You get better accuracy this way. Here is a brief rundown of the specs on the test car. This map should be a good starting point for a mildly modified car.

The stock ECU controls a couple other devices in these cars besides the injectors, ignition, and IAC valve, but not very much. Fuel pump: This is a standard output on the Megasquirt. Wire the Megasquirt pin 37 to the fuel pump relay wire that went to the stock ECU. See below for a picture of an installed relay control mod kit. If you have an MS2, you can use the two stepper IAC outputs to drive the relays — just wire the two IAC1 wires across the coil of the low speed fan relay, and the IAC2 wires across the coil of the high speed fan relay.

If you have one of these cars, you can either do a parallel installation and leave the stock ECU in charge of the transmission while the MegaSquirt controls everything else, or add a GPIO board running MegaShift. The other gauges connect to their own sending units. The stock intake air temperature sensor threads into the intake manifold, where it can absorb heat through the walls of the manifold. Moving it to the intake plumbing upstream of the throttle body but, on a turbo car, downstream of the intercooler can give a more accurate reading without the extreme heatsoak concerns.

You can use either a Megasquirt I or II on these cars, depending on your budget.This is not too difficult if you work methodically, and do not let your enthusiasm prod you into a premature full-throttle melt-down.

Read this entire tuning section first, before attempting to start or tune your car. There may be some later passages that will help you in earlier steps, depending on your installation details. You will get the 'big picture', and the tuning process should make more sense to you. Reread this section if necessary. When you do your conversion, it helps if you can hook the fuel injection up sitting on the fender except for the actual injectors, while still running the engine on its original fuel system.

This allows you to start the engine and verify that the temperature sensors, TPS sensor, the O 2 sensor, fuel pump, etc. It will ease your mind when you proceed to running on MegaSquirt.

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If you have a running engine, it is something you might consider. Tuning Theory Tuning involves setting all the parameters that MegaSquirt uses to be optimal for your engine, injection, and driving. These include things like cold start pulse widths and acceleration enrichments. In general, this is all much easier to understand when you are working on a running engine.

Trying to estimate what your engine will specifically need beforehand can be more confusing than productive. Remember that people tuned engines for maximum performance and efficiency for many years with carburetors without any quantitative feedback at all.

When tuning:. If you have a settings file from someone else's similar configuration, by all means use it as a start. Using other people's settings and tables is a reasonable starting point for tuning. However, no-one should ever assume another person's table is totally right for their engine, even if it is seemingly identical. The reason is that the tolerance build-up of variables makes things different.

Small changes within acceptable tolerances in injector flow rates, regulated fuel pressure, MAP sensor output, etc.Quick links: Manuals : Megasquirt info : Forum help page : Downloads.

Moderators: jsmcortinamuythaibxr. I've read the manual several times regarding the area where MS2 is concerned and the tuning section for it. I am new to tuning but I think I have a somewhat general understanding of EFI and this system, however, I'm having trouble with this car cranking and idling on its own. The car is an 88 Mustang 5. Heads are Trick Flow but the exact ones slip my mind at the moment.

The car has 19lb injectors with all stock wiring and harnesses connected to the relay board, the PWM IAC mod is in place on the relay board for this application, using the stock Ford IAC. No underdrive pulleys, full accessories. It was so lean that it would burn your retinas out to be around the car while it was idling. Far as drivability went, the car seemed to drive and behave just fine, the idle seemed to be the worse problem the car had.

The car cranked perfectly, it would idle fine except for the lean condition and driving it was fine at low speeds and even under WOT conditions. However, since switching to MS2, I've had a plethora of problems The car will NOT crank and idle on its own with that tune and I get error messages after the loading the tune. Once the car is hot and has been driven a little, it will crank with the slightest bump of the key and idle on it's own.

I have other little issues that I'm working out on my own from trial and error, so those aren't a concern to me at the moment, the cranking issue is and I've exerted my limited knowledge to "tune" the cranking section of the MS2, so I need some help please.

I am also attaching a data log of cranking. The car will turn over and attempt to crank, idle for a few seconds and stall out.

You can repeat this until you're just too tired to turn the key anymore and it'll do this over and over. However, my attempts at leaning the car out doesn't seem to really help the situation and it's like I can't actually control the IAC to open enough to give the engine sufficient airflow to idle.

I'd like the car to idle up around when it first cranks from a cold start, tapering down as it warms up. From what I've read, this is possible with the correct settings but I just can't seem to find the right combination, can't seem to find the right settings to adjust I seem to be lost with the cold start.

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I don't really want anyone to just fix the issue for me, I'd rather get guidance on where to begin and what to start changing and figure it out on my own. But I've been messing with this for about a week now and I'm about at my wits end with it, so I'm not above someone just leading me to water and forcing me to drink, if you understand what I'm saying. The long blanks in the data log are where I was sitting and looking, trying to figure out what to do next to attempt to get the car to crank on its own.

There is data throughout the log however. Thank you for reading this thread, thank you in advance for any and all help. I know Matt is tired of me worrying him Re: 88 5. I can supply, repair or upgrade Megasquirts in UK. I'm currently using PWM Warm Up but as I said before, there is no idle speed increase, not from what I've been able to find or configure.

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So I'm thinking that I need Closed Loop, is this right? In my area, I'll never see those temps and somewhere around 30 degrees will more likely be the norm for winter weather. So is it possible to increase those starting numbers to say 30 and work upwards from there? And if so, then am I assuming correctly that all tables that are temperature dependent need to match? Meaning, all starting temps need to be the same, then the second temp needs to match and so on, throughout all tables?

I think that once the engine warms up to it's normal running temp that from that point on the tune is ok.For each individual model there is a model-specific addendum to this documentation which addresses the particular installation needs and other unique features of each model of MSPNP2 EMS. You now have the power to fully unleash all of the potential of your engine both with your current configuration and with any modifications you'll perform in the future, no matter how extreme you want to take it!

It is designed to plug right into the factory harness where the factory ECU used to be, and if your engine is pretty close to stock, will easily start your engine just like the factory computer did. You will, however, want to fine-tune your MSPNP2 in order to get the most out of your car's potential. After all, this ability to tune the fuel and spark maps to match your engine is what a standalone EMS is all about.

For the majority of you, we've packed all the features you'll ever need right into the core of the unit and you'll likely never care to modify anything. We didn't stop with the base feature set of the MegaSquirt but improved upon it. Some of these are built in and use your existing harness, while others require a few changes to the wiring to access since your factory harness didn't support these features.

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You can set the rev limiter anywhere you want it, and choose either spark cut or fuel cut based rev limiting on most MSPNP2 applications. While most of the warnings will appear in the text discussing what the warning is about, there are a few words of caution before you start installing your MSPNP2. First, the MSPNP2 is designed for racing applications and other cars that do not need to be emissions legal.

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It does not use many of the OEM emissions control devices on the engine, nor is its base map tuning calibrated to pass an emissions test. Then again, neither are most stock ECUs. It's designed to be put in the passenger compartment, not under the hood or in places where it will get rained or splashed on. We have thoroughly tested the MSPNP2 on multiple cars, and the 'base map' tuning should get a stock engine or a mildly modified engine running with no problem.

However if you are using this on a modified engine, the tuning may need significant adjustment to properly run your engine. You'll want to dial in the settings before you really push the engine hard. Engines with significant modifications such as those requiring larger injectors may need several settings changed before they will start at all though setting it up for larger injectors is easy, and covered in this manual.

Even if your car is stock, you'll still need to fine tune the base map for your car to ensure your car is safely tuned as all cars are different. You do not want to damage your engine due to assuming the base map is just fine for your car.

Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA)

It's close, but don't assume it's perfect. As a general rule, it will work with almost any modification that works with the stock ECU, and many others that would not have. Attempting to do so may result in unpredictable results, or may simply not work at all and could prevent the MSPNP2 from running your car properly.

As long as you are using the factory ignition system, you can add pretty much any modifications available as long as you tune the MSPNP2 to work with them. More details on this below.

It calculates the amount of fuel to inject based on RPM and manifold pressure. The MSPNP2 uses a 4 bar MAP sensor that can handle up to 44 psi of boost if you've turbocharged or supercharged your engine, though if you're not running forced induction you're still just fine with this sensor.

It just allows for the big plans you may have down the road. The settings and table values depicted within this document are for illustration purposes only.

Refer to the included base maps for the initial settings and values necessary for your application. This thumbdrive contains tuning and analytical software, firmware, base maps, installation guides, and reference manuals.

Furthermore, it should go without saying that the included documentation should be read, reviewed, and understood before they physical installation of your ECU begins. To begin, plug the thumbdrive into your computer.These include things like cold start pulse widths and acceleration enrichments.

Not doing so can cause damage to your engine. Also see the code specific tuning parameter's guide for the code you are running, such as those for 2. Trying to estimate what your engine will specifically need beforehand can be more confusing than productive. When tuning: Do not change more than one thing at a time and always be able to get back to where you started, Do not try to drive the car if you can not get it to idle properly, fix the idle first, Do not try to tune accel before you have tuned the VE, AFR, and spark tables, If you report a problem to the list, please supply details and preferably a datalog, MSQ, and details about the processor and code version you are usingdo not just say "it does not work" - you won't get many responses.

Note that in this manual we assume you are running gasoline. USB will may work, and many people have reported that they have been successful using a USB-serial adapter. Just about any computer that is capable of running Java will be fast enough, but get the fastest laptop computer you think is reasonably priced.

Be sure to read and understand the configuration information before attempting to tune your engine. This way you wont have to worry about proper run-in for the cam shaft, proper ignition timing, etc.

Before starting, make sure to: Have two fully charged fire extinguishers on hand, Check the entire fuel system, from the tank to the injectors and back, for leaks while running the fuel pump. Fix any leaks before proceeding. Check that the fuel pressure is appropriate for your system usually about psi for port injection when not running, usually around psi for throttle body systems. Check your vehicle wiring diagrams if you are not sure.

If this is not the case for your system, find out what is wrong and correct it. This is to help prevent users from hydro-locking their engines. If you feel you need more than 65 milliseconds, you must modify the code to allow longer pulse widths see the embedded code page for code editing and compiling tips.

However, no known engine combinations will require this much fuel to start. Instead of forcing longer pulse widths, you should investigate other fuel system and electrical problems, such as those described above.

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This will cause unpredictable pulse widths up to 13 milliseconds. Instead, set them to 0. This allows very little fuel to flow. This is true for optical sensors, and may be for Hall sensors as well. With a VR sensor, both of these event are definitely NOT fixed, only one is it corresponds to the 'zero-crossing'so you have to be sure to get it right. See this web page for a detailed explanation.

However, 'spark output' also has another function: it sends the dwell info. Often if you get both the input capture and spark output wrong, the timing will be close, but vary with dwell and hence rpm. You can test this by looking for: a voltage drop across the coil which means current is flowing, which it shouldn't be if the engine isn't runningor by hooking a test light in place of the coil it shouldn't light if the engine isn't running.

So knowing what sort of signal the module expects is very helpful, and this info can sometimes be found in the service manual, etc.

Failing that, you can try is setting the dwell to 0. If the engine runs rough or dies, the spark output setting is likely correct since the coil doesn't have enough current to make a reasonable spark. If the indicated and observed timing values aren't the same at these rpms, then either: the edge you are triggering from isn't constant with respect to crank position, OR you are triggering the module off the wrong edge of the out signal spark output setting is incorrect, causing the dwell to become part of the timing.

The 'easiest' way to do all of this is on oscilloscope, but most people don't have one of those. You will want to get the ignition parameters set first, as soon as you get started.Megasquirt training course starts with the basics of downloading and installing the TunerStudio software. Basic functions such as fuel, ignition and idle programming are covered as well as more advanced features such as anti-lag, rev limiters, traction control, closed loop PID control, boost control, and much more.

Part 1 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through downloading and installing TunerStudio software to begin the training series. Part 2 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through creating a project, properly saving calibration file, uploading calibration files, and finding the project folder to retrieve calibrations or datalogs.

Part 3 of the the Megasquirt training course gives you a general walk through of the TunerStudio tuning software to get more familiar with things before tuning.

Part 4 of the the Megasquirt training course gives you a general walk through how to calibrate the basic sensors in TunerStudio software. Part 5 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through general settings within the TunerStudio software. Part 7 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through configuring engine details to allow the VE fuel calculation to work properly.

Part 9 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through the main fuel table, editing and common fuel tuning strategies within the TunerStudio software.

Megasquirt tuning videos// what would you like to see explained in the software?

Part 10 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through all the details in order to tune a MAF based fuel strategy. Part 11 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through all the details in order to tune a MAF based fuel strategy. Part 12 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through how the cranking fuel, after start, and warm-up enrichment work together to allow an engine to start and run properly.

Part 13 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the main spark timing table, as well as the modifier spark tables such as air temp and coolant temp. Part 14 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the EGO correction in order to keep the fuel delivery consistent in all conditions.

Part 15 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the open loop idle control in your tuning strategy. Part 16 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the closed loop idle control in your tuning strategy.

Part 17 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the acceleration enrichment feature when tuning your fuel strategy. Part 18 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the flex fuel tuning strategy in the MS2 and microsquirt based firmware.

Part 19 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the boost control tuning strategy in the MS2 and microsquirt based firmware. Part 20 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with the nitrous control tuning strategy, as well as some uses for the nitrous control programming logic.

Part 21 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through working with programming auxiliary outputs such as a secondary fuel pump, radiator fan, or shift light. Part 22 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through the differences between the TunerStudio Lite and Registered versions, and why you may want to upgrade.

Part 23 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through how to work with making custom dashboards within the TunerStudio software to become as efficient as possible during tuning. Learn EFI engine tuning online with easy to follow video tutorials! Subscribe Watch Trailer Share Share with your friends.

Sort by Alphabetical Release date. Megasquirt Training: Introduction. Megasquirt Part 2: TunerStudio Basics. Megasquirt Part 2: TunerStudio Basics Part 2 of the the Megasquirt training course walks you through creating a project, properly saving calibration file, uploading calibration files, and finding the project folder to retrieve calibrations or datalogs.Also note that the only item that is required for the installation is a modern laptop running a Windows OS.

Also be aware that these instructions are for the current update and over time steps and processes can be changed with a software update from the developers. We hope that we could provide a very detailed tutorial on this long process that is easy to understand and follow. Check out our video as well! Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related! Checkout our current Sales!

MicroSquirt Tuning Basics Foxbody Mustang

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Megasquirt tuning videos// what would you like to see explained in the software?

Show More Show Less. Share this article! Before installation you will need to print and read over the instruction manual first. Put vehicle on jack stands or a lift and disconnect the negative battery cable.

Since you will be working under the dash, we recommend removing both front seats to give you more work room. On the passenger side of the car remove the frontward scuff plate retaining screw followed by the kick panel push pin.

Pass the kick panel over the scuff plate and pull straight out on the panel to remove from vehicle. Locate the factory PCM and it may be in your best interest to disconnect a few electrical connections. Loosen the 10 mm bolt that secures the electrical connection to the EEC. Once the bolt is loose, disconnect the connection. Loosen and remove the 2 7mm glove box hinge retaining screws and open the glove box and squeeze both sides together so that you are able to remove it.

To remove the AC blower box, you will need to loosen and remove the upper bolt that is just behind the vent tube.

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Loosen and remove the small 7 mm retaining screws located directly underneath the box. Dislodge the push pin that secures the sound deadening material and remove from vehicle Remove the factory EEC cradle and set aside.

The reasoning for removing all of these pieces is to expose the passenger side firewall grommet Be careful to cut a small slit on the inside and outside of the grommet. Once it comes out of the opening you can remove the tape and make sure about 2 ft of the hose is inside the car. NOTE: use caution when pulling the hose through the grommet If you are installing a wideband into the car use this time to cut small openings into the driver side firewall grommet.

These cuts will need to be a little large than the passenger side because it will have to pass through an electrical connector.

Disconnect whichever oxygen sensor you may be replacing with the wideband sensor. Take the wideband sensor and apply anti-seize if needed. Loosely tighten the new sensor because it will have to be removed again to properly calibrate. Feed the new wire alongside the existing harness. Tape the factory connector and secure it out of the way. Secure the wideband sensor wire alongside the existing starter wire and tuck out of the way.

How to MegaSquirt Your Ford Mustang 5.0

The PCM will need to be opened to configure the pre-installed oxygen sensor jumper and comes easily apart by removing the 4 phillips head screws and 2 hexagonal screws from the serial connection with a 5 mm socket. Now that the top cover is removed, the only jumper that should be changed is J6 and controls the oxygen sensor connectivity.

With this jumper is also the pin labeled J and controls the passenger side bank, but since we are dealing with the driver side in this video, we are removing the jumper labeled J Reassemble the PCM and carefully tighten the retaining hardware.


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